Oil or varnish for a wooden floor? Both give a good level of protection, so it's really done to looks: arnish will give you a tough, but shinier finish, while oil will look more natural, but is more prone to scratching. The trick is to test out both finishes on a sample section of board to see which you prefer.
Solid wood flooring can be refinished repeatedly; engineered wood flooring can only be refinished a limited number of times, dependent on the thickness of the top veneer. Both, however, are durable and will rarely need refinishing, particularly pre-finished engineered wood floors, which hold up well against moist conditions, too. Solid wood boards are an authentic choice, and can be sanded and refinished whenever required.
Woods like pine and beech are cost effective, but are more likely to get damaged easily and show wear over time. Natural wood flooring has many benefits, from providing longevity to changing the acoustics of a room, giving it a warm, rich sound. Real wood floors add value, appeal and a sense of luxury to the home and, despite common misconceptions, can usually be laid successfully over underfloor heating.
Busier spaces, such as the hallway, living and dining room will benefit from more expensive hardwoods, like walnut or oak. Solid wood can warp if exposed to lots of moisture, so it's best not to lay it in kitchens and bathrooms.
A few reviews comment on the planks being damaged or crumbling easily during installation, but most users find the flooring to be acceptable when opening the box and to withstand normal installation processes. We have one more floor to do this will be a biggie for backfilling I can see it taking days of hard work to fill lucky if you have some good rubble rocks boulders old bricks etc job goes quicker, Remember also it is a good opportunity to run extra electric points across the floor before concreting. Ganesh Nagar, Kalwan, Dist. Then you compact it with a compactor, you can rent one from any tool renting place for quite cheap. You must log in or register to reply here.
Engineered flooring is usually made up of three or more layers of plywood laid at right angles to each other, with a durable top 'wear' layer of natural timber up to 6mm thick. As long as the wear layer is at least 4mm, many products can even be given a light sanding if damaged. It is very stable — more so than solid wood — so you're less likely to get movement between boards or warping caused by humidity. Expect engineered boards to have the same attractive, variable tones and knots as solid wood.
Suitable for most rooms, from hallways and living spaces to bedrooms, it's best avoided in shower rooms and family bathrooms. To find out whether the boards can be used with underfloor heating, ask the manufacturer before buying, and also check that the wood has been sustainably sourced.
The Boulevarde engineered oak flooring from Indigenous is perfect for creating a Scandi look, retaining paler tones while revealing the natural graining within the oak. For true period authenticity, reclaimed or salvaged wood flooring is a ready-aged, characterful choice that can often be fitted over underfloor heating, due to being acclimatised over the centuries. Parquet blocks are particularly popular, but boards from all eras are available. Be guided by the age of your home, and buy from a supplier that adheres to the Salvo Code.
Made up of smaller blocks laid in a pattern such as herringbone, parquet flooring has its roots in the 17th century homes of the aristocracy, and its popularity blossomed throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. The pattern celebrates the grain of the wood and enhances the look of the timber, catching the light. This parquet design, featuring hexagonal staves laid to form an intricate design while offering a warm and golden glow, is delivered with an untreated surface to be finished on site with lacquer or oil.
Laminate flooring is made from compressed fibreboard planks covered by a photographic image beneath a protective overlay.
More affordable than solid or engineered wood, the best designs are convincingly natural-looking and hardwearing. Laminate is suitable for most rooms, but in the bathroom avoid designs with an expansion prone chipboard core; instead, pick a water- and humidity-resistant fibreboard-based laminate. For a realistic wood finish, look for planks with bevelled edges and knots. Colours Harmonia Black Slate effect Laminate flooring, 2. Colours Dolce Grey Oak effect Laminate flooring, 1. Colours Staccato Natural Oak parquet effect Laminate flooring, 1.
Zimba Oak effect Laminate flooring, 1. Colours Leggiero Grey Stone effect Laminate flooring, 1. Showing 24 of 85 products. Home Right chevron.
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Welcome to Pergo, the natural choice in flooring when you want a durable, easy to install laminate, vinyl or wood parquet floor. Find here Wooden Flooring, Wooden Floor manufacturers, suppliers & exporters in Accord Floors Merbau Wood Decking Rs /Square Feet Seal the deal.
Read more. Filters Colour Up chevron Check. Shade Up chevron Check. Joined Aug 7, Messages You dont fill it all with concrete. We did this at a rental property of ours where we installed a bathroom in a room that use to have the same wooden flooring. Essentially you can fill it with anything, we used broken bricks and building sand, pice of random concrete etc.
Then you compact it with a compactor, you can rent one from any tool renting place for quite cheap. Then you throw a normal concrete layer on top and tile etc. Should be a lot cheaper than filling the whole thing with concrete, which isnt needed.
Dunno bout the cupboards Joined Aug 1, Messages 9, For a kitchen use tiles on the floor. TowerGuru Expert Member. Joined Apr 2, Messages 2, BrokenLink said:. GayTechie said:.
I highly recommend you get a professional to do it though. The fill has to be compacted correctly otherwise it will end up being a complete balls up a few years later when the floor starts sinking because the fill wasn't compacted properly. The thickness of the concrete slab should be no less than 75mm if it is non load bearing.
Make sure they put in reinforcing as well. Are you going to lay tiles ontop of the concrete or just leave it bare?
If you are leaving it bare i recommend you "powerfloat" the screed the finish is just so much better than a hand done screed. But if you are tiling then it doesnt really matter. BCO said:. Coz what you just said sounds like it might be a tad bit expensive. Joined Dec 9, Messages 1, This forum is amazing, im in the very same position with my kitchen.
I opted to replace the oregon pine wood floors infected with borer and place laminates over untill i too can gut the place.
The method I hear works well is using polystyrene instead of rubble, also im not too sure the excess weight with concrete and rubble in a 2nd floor apartment is the right thing to do. Joined Oct 17, Messages 4, MrMag Senior Member. Joined Jun 1, Messages I have had 3 rooms including kitchen done the 1st one was done by a Contractor result floor not level.